Everybody loves Minky, especially in the winter to keep nice and warm! I am sharing a Minky Crib Sheet Tutorial which is perfect for both babies and toddlers today. I started this tutorial over a year ago and never shared it (I have no idea why), but I thought it was still be fun! I prefer to sew minky with a zig zag stitch since it helps to keep both layers from slipping and pulling and works really well absorbing its plushness. This is for a standard crib or toddler bed mattress, but minky also comes wide enough to use for a twin bed sheet. Oh, happy kids!
2 Yards Cuddle Minky or Dimple Dot Minky (Can also be done with Woven Cotton or Knit Fabric)
102″ of 1/4″ elastic
1 Rotary Blade
1 Clear Grid Ruler
1 Cutting Mat
1 Walking foot (*affiliate link) if using minky or knit fabric.
Minky Crib Sheet Tutorial:
Cut Minky or ther fabric to make a 67″ x 44″ rectangle.
1 and 2. Using your rotary blade and mat line up corner of your rectangle and cut an 8″ from both the top and side of the fabric to form a 8″ square. Repeat on remaining 3 sides.
3. You can also place the fabric wrong sides together and cut through 2 layers at once.
4. Fold the two edges of the square together, so right sides are facing each other and pin.
5. Sew with a long straight stitch from the top of the corner section to the bottom. Repeat for all 4 corners. *You can zig zag stitch the edges if you prefer, but since minky does not ravel it is not required. However if you are using a woven cotton, I would highly recommend doing so.
You should now have something resembling a crib sheet. You are almost finished, just the sides to complete!
6 & 7. Starting with any side you prefer roll the unfinished bottom of the sheet under 1/4″ (DO NOT IRON), then roll this part under 1″ and pin every 1 to 1 1/2″. **I do these steps together as I go around the blanket since it tends to unroll and ironing is not possible with minky.
8. Using a long zig zag stitch (which helps the minky top keep from pulling and slipping like a straight stitch will do), sew along the inner edge to form the casing. Leave a 2″-3″ opening to insert the elastic.
9. Insert the elastic into the casing and pull though (I like to use a safety pin to help pull it through the casing) and guide all the way around to the open slit. To close, pin the ends of the elastic together overlapping and inch and sew. Then roll the open fabric under to form the rest of the casing and sew closed.